ICH Listing and Documentation Project: Endangered traditional Cuisines of Jaisalmer Region
A project on the documentation of endangered traditional cuisines of Jaisalmer region was undertaken by Gwalior Chapter to document and digitize the unique recipes with the aim to give life to many lost traditional cuisines.With time old ladies and chefs who were masters in these recipes will disappear from existence.
During the primary survey, it was seen that the whole cuisine of the Jaisalmer region is divided based on the different caste prevailing in the community. Furthermore, these castes are divided into various other classes of community. For instance, Muslim community is further divided in various classes similarly Hindu community is separated by various classes. These communities use same local ingredients to cook food but their cooking “recipe” is different from each other.
These facts emerged from the survey and research and there have been drastic change in the food pattern of this region in last 25 years that needs to be noticed and documented. The reason behind this change is the tourism development in this region which has become the most significant economic activity leading towards modification not only in lifestyle but also in the eating patterns. As Jaisalmer has become important tourist destination, varied global cultures including their cuisines have entered in the houses of the Jaisalmer too. In this situation, it was decided to list and document the food customs of this region. The chapter has compiled 60 vegetarian recipes which can be tasted during the special festive occasions in the houses of Jaisalmer though most of them have now been modified as per the preferences of kitchens.
The survey is descriptive and exploratory whereby aspects of the available resources in region and the condition existing are taken into consideration. At the same time potential for preserving the traditional recipes are also studied. It is a study of what was and what is and does not include experimentation. The approach includes both to survey and to document the traditional cuisines of the Jaisalmer region. Based on the survey, the whole cuisine of this region is classified as shown in the flow chart.
Recipes are further divided into Lost and Living recipes. Lost recipes are those, which are no longer prepared or cooked in any kitchen of Jaisalmer. These are disappearing from day to day life of the people. Even the preparation of cuisines during special occasions like the royal Dushhera procession have stopped due to the fact that ritual of royal Dushhera is discontinued. As a result of this these recipes have become extinct. Whereas, living recipes are those which still find place in the kitchens of Jaisalmer. Although they are modified a little as per the requirement but are still in practice.
