Endangered Traditional Cuisines of Jaisalmer Region
In 2018, the INTACH Gwalior Chapter initiated a project to document and list the traditional cuisines of the Thar Desert. The culinary traditions of this region are influenced by various dry fruits, such as chilgoza, almonds, and raisins, as well as spices like saffron. The predominantly non-vegetarian Rajputs have impacted dishes like like laal maas, safed maas, khad khargos, and jungli maas. Foods that can be stored for several days and eaten without reheating are preferred. Additionally, the scarcity of water and fresh green vegetables has influenced cooking practices.
The primary survey of the project revealed that the cuisine of the Jaisalmer region is categorized based on the different castes within the community. Additionally, these castes are further divided into various classes. For instance, the Hindu community is differentiated into various classes that use the same local ingredients for cooking, but their recipes differ. A major common ingredient across all communities and classes is milk and its by-products, along with bajra. Wheat and rice are used infrequently, while common lentils include Chana dal and Moong dal. Usage of Urad dal, Arhar dal, and Rajmabeing almost negligible. The survey also noted a significant change in food patterns in the region over the past 25 years, attributed to tourism development, which has ironically influenced lifestyles and eating habits. Various methodologies were employed in the survey, including primary data collection from locals, secondary data collection from existing literature, and the use of interview schedules and questionnaires.
One of the main reasons for conducting the survey was the absence of chefs and elderly women familiar with traditional recipes. The survey identified a division between recipes: those that are Lost and those that are Living. The lost recipes are no longer practiced in any Jaisalmer kitchen; for example, since the Royal Dussehra ritual is no longer celebrated, the cuisine associated with it is not prepared. In contrast, living recipes are still present in the kitchens of Jaisalmer. While they may have been modified, they continue to be practiced. INTACH has successfully documented 60 vegetarian recipes from the Jaisalmer region that can still be enjoyed during special festive occasions.
A few recipes documented by INTACH Gwalior Chapter are listed below:
1.Wheat Flour Seera
Preparation Time: 5 mins
Cooking Time: 15 mins
No. of Portions: 4
Ingredients:
Wheat Flour – 250 Gms
Ghee – 125 Gms
Sugar – 150 Gms
Luke Warm Water – 750 Gms
Method: Place the saucepan on the stove and pour ghee into it. Once it crackles, add the whole wheat flour and stir well. Continue stirring until it roasts and turns a reddish-brown colour. Next, pour in lukewarm water while continuously mixing. Add sugar to the batter and stir continuously to prevent lumps. Once everything is well mixed, garnish with dry fruits and serve hot.
Significance: This desert is usually cooked as a sign of warm hospitality to the guests and is a convenient recipe since all the ingredients are easily available at home.
2.Bisnan
Preparation time: 15 mins
Cooking time: 1 hour
No. of portions: 5
Ingredients:
Thick Bajra flour – 250 Gms
Buttermilk – 100 Gms
White Butter – 200 Gms
Method: Take a saucepan and put it on the gas stove. Heat fresh white butter in it until the butter turns into ghee. Then, slowly keep adding small portions of bajra while stirring continuously. Similarly, keep adding buttermilk and stir continuously. Let it cook on medium flame until the batter dries and the bajra flour is properly cooked. Now, switch off the flame and transfer it into a bowl.
Significance: This is a healthy dish which is prepared in winter season and is served with desi sugar.
The survey conducted by the INTACH Gwalior Chapter revealed some intriguing findings. Most recipes do not include mustard seeds, and spices, except for asafoetida and cumin, are typically used in their raw form. Ghee is preferred over refined oil because it is easily accessible, as many households commonly keep cows. Garlic, onion, and ginger are used less frequently, while tomatoes and coriander are added sparingly due to the dry climate. Locals have a fondness for desserts, often enjoying them with their main dishes rather than after the meal.
Following their survey, the INTACH Gwalior Chapter has made several recommendations. They suggest continuing the project to document the remaining recipes (both vegetarian and non-vegetarian) that have yet to be recorded. Eventually, they plan to compile a book of these recipes for the younger generation to appreciate the culinary heritage of Jaisalmer.
